The white substance is actually mineral deposits. To remove the mineral deposits from the showerhead, pour a cup of vinegar into a plastic bag and then place the bag over the showerhead fixture and leave it in place overnight. The next day, remove the bag and use an old toothbrush to scrub off the deposits.
These are applied to a pipe and fitting before applying the solvent weld glue to ensure a strong bond. Their use is always a good idea, especially if it’s for a water supply line or the connection is going to be somewhere that will be difficult to get to in the future.
There are three ways to repair cracked copper pipe. One is to use plumbers epoxy putty on the area. Two would be to solder the crack and third, if you have enough, cut the bad section and put in compression fitting.
The pressure relief valve could be leaking. Try operating the valve to see if it will stop. It also might need tightening. A gasket around the heating element may need to be replaced, or the tank could be rusted out, which requires a new hot water heater.
Turn off the toilet’s water supply valve, flush the toilet and sponge out any remaining water in the tank. The refill valve is usually removed by turning a nut that holds it in place. When the nut is off, the refill assembly can be lifted out. Install the new assembly by following the manufacturer’s directions.
If the toilet flushes on its own, the flush valve is probably not seating properly and water is leaking from the tank into the bowl. This could be the result of the lift chain being tangled. If it is the valve, you can change the flapper. Scale deposits on the seat can be removed with steel wool or with No. 500 abrasive paper. Make sure you clean the valve seat. If it still leaks, the seat is damaged and you will need to replace it as well.
That typically indicates problems with the ballcock. There are parts that have the ballcock and float all in one replacement kit. If the toilet doesnft flush at all, the problem may just be a broken flush handle.
First, clean your PVC with a pipe cleaner. Wipe off pipe cleaner with a clean rag. Apply a liberal coat of primer. Apply a thin coat of cement (while primer is still wet) to pipe, insert pipe into socket while still wet. Give a quarter turn if possible, as this will allow the glue to cover any dry spots.
Yes, you should test the pressure relief valve regularly and replace it if it fails to operate. At least once a year you should flush out the sediments. As long as a tank has a functioning anode, it should not rust. Therefore you should check the anode about once every two years. The fitting is usually on the top of the tank and it’s often tight, so a torque multiplier is a useful tool. If you find 6" or more of the steel core wire exposed, or if the rod formed a hard, adherent calcium carbonate coating that prevents further corrosion of the sacrificial metal, replace the rod. There are segmented rods if overhead clearance is limited.
First, try using a plunger. Second, try using a liquid drain opener, but use caution and read directions. Third, you can remove the trap. Be careful if you have used a liquid drain opener because there may be some in the trap. Fourth, if the clog is beyond the trap, there are drain augers that extend from about 15 feet to about 50 feet. There are also special enzyme-based drain openers that will help dissolve buildup in pipes in older homes.
If this is a replacement and the previous one served well for a number of years, you can simply install the same size. If the old one seemed to run too often, you may want to get a slightly larger pump so it doesnft have to work so hard. If this is a new installation, 1/3 hp will normally handle occasional water flow, while a 1/2 hp will be needed if there is daily water flow. You might also consider buying a battery back-up sump pump for emergency use during a power outage, when the main pump fails or when water flow exceeds the capacity of the main pump. Apart from basic systems, you should probably have a plumber install this.
It helps prevent contaminated water from flowing back from an irrigation system into the household water supply, since sprinkler lines typically have been exposed to lawn and garden chemicals. Anti-siphon valves can be installed outside in an inconspicuous place anywhere between the sprinkler valve and the inlet pipe to the house. Most sprinkler valves come with an integrated anti-siphon valve.
Your wax gasket is probably not working anymore. This is a simple problem to fix. You need to remove the toilet and install a new wax ring. While you have the toilet off, you should go ahead and replace the bolts. Otherwise, it could be a crack in your toilet bowl.
There may be too much space between the flange and the bottom of the toilet. If you recently remodeled the bathroom, for example, you may have raised the height of the floor. To fix, either raise the flange and drain or use a double wax ring or a ring with a plastic sleeve.
If it is a small crack, you can try to repair it. Drain the toilet, dry it off, apply some Plumber’s Goop and let it dry completely before refilling the tank. However, you may have to replace the bowl.
It could be that you have lost your “air cushion.” To get it back, turn the water supply off at the main valve. Turn on all the faucets around your home. Then turn on the main valve again and shut off each faucet. This should take care of the problem.
Yes. Shut off the water supply to the toilet. Mark the water level on the inside of the tank with a pencil. Check the water level in 10 or 20 minutes. If the water has fallen, you know the flush valve is leaking.
It needs to be high enough for complete flushes, but it should be below the top of the overflow pipe. The tank should have a colored or molded water level mark. The rule of thumb is to set the water level about _" below the top of the overflow pipe.
To adjust the water level on a conventional toilet tank, you simply bend the float arm down to lower the water level or up to raise it. Another widely popular valve has a pinch clamp that allows you to raise or lower the float.
Itfs probably related to the stink (vent) pipe on your roof, which allows gases that build up in the sewer pipes to be carried away. A marked difference between the low pressure outside and the higher pressure inside will cause the water levels to fluctuate. It will be less pronounced if you leave the bathroom door open, which may not be desirable. You can also climb on the roof and check out the stink pipe, which may need to be cleaned out with a snake.